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After years of experiments and readings I came to the conclusion that henna when prepared with an acid substance colors better.

I have often read that if you want light colors it is better to add more acid substance, but this is only partially true.

If your goal (also depends on the starting point) is a light color, that it does not undergo oxidation over time and that it does not stratify, it is true that an acid substance is required but not in greater quantity, everything depends on the acidic substance that you choose.

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The juices made from citrus fruit when mixed with henna create a color on the hair that initially turns out to be a light color, but then gradually goes to darken.

Often after the application of henna many people experience dryness in their hair.

This dryness is given by the lemon juice but it is not harmful for our hair, in fact it is due to the rise of the "flakes" of keratin, but with the application of a good balm (without silicones, parabens etc ...) or other moisturizing substance this effect will fade.

Today it is possible through the use of different acid substances to "modify" the color of our henna paste.

Juices derived from citrus fruits or other plants offer the opportunity to create many colors, all natural and permanent on the hair.
In our online shop :https://www.herbarium-magicum.co.uk/  you can find some of the fruit enhancers that best acidify henne / cassia.

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Limoncetto (citric acid):
it tends to create light and coppery colors that remain light and bright.

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GooseBerry (emblica officinalis):
Gallic acid naturally present in amla tends to create tones of ash with cassia, henna and mixtures of henna / indigo.
Amla acids temporarily break the hydrogen bonds in keratin and cause the absorption of indigo to be greater, thanks to this process it is possible to create even darker colors and more ash.

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VikingBerry (aronia prunifolia):
Thanks to the malic acid contained in it creates cold brown colors and discourages the gilding that sometimes occurs over time with henna

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Dust Light (ascorbic acid, pure Vitamin C):

 Creates bright colors and is less likely to darken over time.
Excellent for those who want to avoid the henna stratification and the progressive darkening of color.

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Ligh Shadow (diprotic acid):
creates lighter and brighter colors.
Keeps light colors without getting dark with oxidation.
It is useful for lovers of Irish red and to maintain it over time.

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Eclipse (potassium bitartrate):
Creates a darker and deeper color, tending to brown.

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We can also use other acid substances that we all certainly have in our kitchens, such as apple vinegar.

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 The latter, in addition to creating colors that will darken over time, will also give the dough a not so pleasant smell.

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I do not recommend it on those who have irritated skin, those who cannot stand strong smells and those who aspire to light red shades.

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Another excellent alternative is apple juice, although it is gentle on the hair, the juices on the market are almost always added with other substances and this is not good.

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With my experience gained in 10 years I have tried different henna mixes prepared with eggs, yogurt, oil ...

I can say according to the experience of friends (I am vegan) that the eggs are absolutely not suitable to mix in the dough with henna as they block the coloring.

As for the oil, the same thing happens to the eggs, which means that it blocks the color and consequently colors less.

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Yogurt, according to friends' experience, is also long-haired and blocks the coloring and at times causes the indigo to become less tied to henna with the consequence of a color that is very easily discharged.

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If you do not follow a vegan regime you can still use these ingredients for nourishing and restructuring masks but I do not recommend them for the preparation of henna.

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The best way to get the most out of henna color is undoubtedly to use an acid substance.

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I love light copper colors or in any case light and bright shades I use Light Shadow and I no longer have the problem of color layering, something that surely will happen to many of you with the use of henna over time.

 Those who aspire to be a natural red with the use of herbs recommend trying this acidifier.

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If instead you love dark and deep colors stratification and oxidation are your best allies and therefore I recommend one of the other fruit acidifiers.

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Mary